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    There are many greenhouses and there are different classifications based on very diverse parameters to be able to catalog them. Thus, it is possible to find classifications that group them according to factors such as the thermal regime, the external profile of the structures, the size or type of material used in the construction, and so on. In this article, we are going to discover what types of greenhouses are and, also, we will tell you what this structure is meant for agriculture and that, increasingly, is also part of our food reality.

    What are greenhouses?

                          Within the structures used in horticulture to protect crops, the most used are greenhouses. Generally a greenhouse was understood as a place to store plants during the winter and, thus, protect them from the low temperatures that occur in cold weather.

    At present, this greenhouse concept has been overtaken by circumstances, since greenhouses are now being built and used in quite different environments for which they were conceived, such as the tropics with quite warm environments.

                          The design of a greenhouse depends on many factors. Therefore, in the current context, a greenhouse is defined as an agricultural construction with a translucent cover in which it is possible to reproduce or simulate the most suitable climatic conditions for the growth and development of the crops established in its interior with relative independence of the outside medium.

                          The main purpose of a greenhouse is to protect plants from factors adverse to their development, such as: high and low temperatures, heavy rains, hail, winds, etc. The technological development of greenhouses has contributed greatly to achieve higher yields per unit area, promoting intensive agriculture and precision. To this end, a large number of mechanisms and equipment necessary for the optimal control of the environment have been implemented, but we will talk about this later.

    In this other article we tell you how to choose a good greenhouse.

    How is the structure of a greenhouse?

    The structure or framework is one of the main elements of a greenhouse, since it is where most parts of the structure of a greenhouse are supported. The structures are classified into two large groups: rigid structures and aerodynamic structures. The rigid structures are designed based on straight lines which makes the greenhouse more resistant to air currents. Instead, the aerodynamic structures have curved roofs and walls that allow them to more effectively dislodge the winds that hit them. The structure is usually built with support posts that are called struts, columns or pillars and these are the pieces that receive most of the load represented by the roof and the greenhouse mechanization or automation devices. In addition, we must take into account the overload that environmental factors on the structure will create, such as winds and precipitation, so that we are sure that the columns will hold and the greenhouse will not collapse.

    Other elements of importance to part of the props are the pieces that support the roof which, in general, are arc-shaped in greenhouses of curved lines or triangles in those of straight lines, although this is not always the case. These pieces are joined at the top with others known as stringers or belts, which can be the same material as the struts or one lighter or thinner. You have to be very careful that the stringers do not have edges because they could cut the plastic and you would have to replace it with a new one.

    Types of greenhouses

    Knowing the types of greenhouses allows us to characterize and describe the elements of a set, with the purpose of grouping its components into different categories or groups to facilitate its study or analysis with different objectives. A classification also serves as a point of reference to know what models exist in the market and what their characteristics are, so that it is relatively simple to choose the one that suits our needs; in this case, the most appropriate greenhouse to produce. Generally, all greenhouse design can be classified in some category. Next we will mention which are the most common greenhouse classifications:

    ·         By size For the layout or location of structures
    ·         By the external shape or profile For the construction material
    ·         By night thermal regime Per lifetime
    ·         By characteristics of environmental control
    ·         By social orientation
    ·         By technological levels
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    Clean sheets allow them to receive water, light and oxygen

    It is important to maintain the cleanliness of the plants so that they receive enough water, light and oxygen.

    This is why it is convenient to establish a routine to clean the leaves of your plants periodically; The cleaning method depends on the type and size of the blade, as explained below. 

    Plants with large leaves 

    Large leaves, because they have more surface, are the ones that accumulate more dust in them. To clean a large leaf, place your hand under the leaf; that is, on the underside of it to be used as a support.With the other hand you pass a damp cloth or sponge and carefully remove the dust from the surface of the sheet. 

    There are products on the market to make the sheets look brighter; avoid using homemade products from your kitchen, because the sticky consistency, the powder adheres more easily (say, milk, oil or beer). 


    Plants with plush leaves 

    In this case, the cleaning method differs completely, since using a cloth or sponge would damage the hairy surface of the plush sheet. Use a brush or soft bristle brush and gently brush the surface of the leaves to remove accumulated dust. 

    If you place the pot on a tray with wet stones, the evaporation that is generated around the plant will help the leaves stay moist and as new. 

    Plants with small leaves 

    The easiest method of cleaning in the case of small leaves, is to use a shower or leave the plant in the rain to take care of removing dust. 

    It is recommended that the water is warm or at room temperature to avoid the damage that can cause the temperature change by using cold water or hot water. If too much water has been used in the cleaning process, try to drain the plant to avoid damage due to excess moisture. 

    And something important! If flowers have sprouted on the small leaves, it is preferable to postpone the cleaning of the plant.
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    1. Light


    • Depending on the sun that the terrace receives due to its orientation (East, West, North, etc.), you should choose plants for sun or shade. 


    • Plants with flowers, in general, need more sun. 

    • It is good to regularly turn the pots so they receive the same light everywhere, otherwise you will find crooked and depopulated plants on the one hand and with less flowers. 

    • Never expose one that has been in shadow to the direct sun of blow and bump because the leaves can be burned; you should accustom her progressively. This is the case, for example, when the plants that have spent the winter in the interior are taken to the terrace. 

    • The pots in the sun become very hot (more if it is dark in color). 

    • Below 0 ° C the mud cracks and can break. Uncooked clay containers and glazed ceramics should be insulated with burlap sacks, bubble wrap, tarpaulins, etc. to protect them from frost, or to place them in protected places. Clay pots with small cracks can be arranged by surrounding them with a wire. 


    Lack of light




    Do your plants bloom little?


    Do they have an elongated growth?


    Are they leafy and leafless on the bottom?


    They are symptoms of lack of light. 



    2. Wind


    The cold north winds.


    The warm winds that dry the plants.

    The coastal wind that carries salts that are deposited on the leaves and burn them. Protect the plants from all this. 

    In difficult conditions of strong wind, choose hard species. 


    3. Humidity of the air


    Spray the leaves with water in dry weather without wetting the flowers, since they would last less.


    Other methods to increase the humidity are: 

    Grouping them together to create a humid microclimate.

    Put the pots on a plate with stones and water but without touching the bottom of the pot. 


    4. Substrates




    • Buy quality substrates for pots. There are very good and very bad. 

    • Do not use garden soil because it contains a lot of clay, it compacts, it carries fungi, weeds.

    • It is highly recommended to mix perlite with the substrate you buy. It will provide aeration and more water retention. Another good material to mix in substrates is coconut fiber. An example would be: peat + fiber + pearlite, all three equally. 

    • If you do not find either pearlite or coconut fiber, use thick, washed river sand or chopped white cork to aerate the substrate. 

    Any of these four materials (pearlite, coconut fiber, sand or cork) provides aeration and also save money since they are cheaper than peat or mulch to make volume. 

    • Do not forget to deposit in the bottom of the pot or planter, over the holes, gravel, expanded clay, pieces of pottery, etc. And if you have pots in the window, put a layer of gravel on the ground so that the rain do not splash the crystals. 


    5. Watering of pots




    • Frequent error in the cultivation of plants in a pot is the excess of irrigation that rots the roots. The lack of water is also fatal, although it is always better to stay short than to go. 

    • If you are dying, look first at how you are watering and check if the container has clogged the hole in the bottom where the excess water comes out. 

    • To know when to water, the best method is to introduce your fingers in the substrate and check if it is wet or dry. Other methods are:

    • Take the handle of a knife and hit the pot. If a clear or clear noise is produced, it means that the plant needs water. The dull sound indicates that it is full. Try it in a pot before and after watering, you'll see how it sounds different.

    • With practice you can notice when taking the pot in weight if you have more water or less.

    • Moisture meters that are punctured. It also orientates. 

    • It is good that between watering and irrigation the earth dries a little. It is not the same a wet earth that soaked. 

    • More watering if it is in the sun and more if the drying wind gives it. With hot wind in summer, watering pots and planters practically every day. 

    • If you have clay pots, remember that the walls are porous and lose water around. You will need more irrigation than plastic or enameled water. 

    • Water early in the morning or at dusk, not with the sun in full height. 

    • If you can, install an automated drip irrigation system on the terrace. In summer, when it is watered almost daily, you will realize how comfortable it is. 

    • There are also self-watering planters with a tank that supplies the water as needed. 

    • In the season that the plants stop throwing flowers, it reduces the irrigation frequency so as not to saturate them, since they need less quantity. 

    • To try to recover an excessively watered plant, carefully remove the root ball from the pot and wrap it in several layers of absorbent paper towels. Leave everything like this for 24 hours. If the leaves are soaked, add new ones. Then return to put the plant in the pot and do not water it for several days. 

    • It is essential that the lower orifices drain well. Cover them inside with pieces of pottery from broken pots better than gravel and will not clog. 

    • If you put a dish under the pot to collect the excess water from the irrigation or a flowerpot, empty it after a short time (for example, 30 minutes) since stagnant water can rot the roots of the plant. 


    Tips to save water




    1. Use drought-resistant species (you have to water them less).

    2. Cover the surface of the substrate with fine-grained pine bark, Chinese, gravel, expanded clay pellets, etc.; this will protect the moisture from the substrate.

    3. Shade the species most sensitive to heat. 

    4. Group the plants to create a wet microclimate. 

    5. Irrigation in the early morning or at dusk is the best. It loses less by evaporation and the plant takes it better.
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    Well maintained and maintained garden furniture not only looks more attractive, but also lasts much longer.

    How to maintain, clean and care for garden furniture.

    Well maintained and maintained garden furniture not only looks more attractive, but also lasts much longer.

    The furniture in your garden is usually exposed to weather conditions much harder than the furniture you have inside and this can affect their beauty and very mainly the way to maintain them and therefore to their durability.

    So to keep them protected against the natural elements that present a significant risk of damages, your garden furniture will be a very important and also a main point in your preservation and conservation activity since you want them to last you many years.

    However this work requires effort and it is crucial that you begin to take care of your outdoor furniture properly before they begin to show signs of deterioration and neglect.

    How to keep these garden furniture depends mainly on the material with which they are manufactured.

    Some types of materials such as natural stone, or artificial stone, are resistant to most of the elements that you can find outdoors and that can pose a risk, such as humidity, sunlight and even insects.

    Even so, and as tough as they are in the inclemency of time, you must take care of them, keep them and keep dust and dirt from getting too far below the surface.

    He thinks that artificial stone, concrete, even in polished finishes, is also a material that is porous and as such the dirt can hide in those pores and if it is for long seasons, you will find it much more difficult to clean it.

    As you can see, choosing a furniture for your artificial stone garden is going to result in that you will not need any special care in maintenance and cleaning, just a regular cleaning, that you can either use a water pressure gun, or simply the hose of your garden to keep your look attractive and inviting.

    Anyway, and this question is often done to me by many clients, as for stains in this type of material, my answer is always the same, artificial stone is not immune to stains.

    So in your artificial stone garden furniture, you have to be careful not to spill products that can cause these stains, and if produced, clean it the sooner the better, since the longer you wait to clean it the deeper will be the stain and more open penetrated into the material.

    Your garden furniture you have to treat it the same way and shape as the furniture inside your house.

    This means that if you protect your table, by means of a tablecloth or rubber, so that the table does not stain with random stains, it is evident that also in your artificial stone garden table, you will use the same method to keep it clean and this in optimum conditions.
    Other garden furniture that is made of materials that are not weather resistant does not mean that they can not be kept in perfect condition for a long time, but you know that it will require much more care and maintenance.

    For example, if your garden furniture is made of wood, you must first determine what type of wood it is, so that it can be properly maintained, since not all types of wood need the same care and same form, even with the same intensity.

    When wooden furniture is in the open, you have to protect it, especially against moisture and termites, as well as keep them away from direct exposure to the sun.

    One advice in this regard, as for the garden furniture you have made of wood, is that it would be very appropriate to extend their shelf life, you could store or store them indoors, protected from bad weather, when not to use with so much frequency or after the end of the garden season.

    Examine them carefully before storing them, and periodically check that there are no signs of damage such as mold, mildew, cracks and tiny holes that may indicate an insect infestation.

    In your garden you can also have other materials for your furniture.

    The care and conservation of your metal garden furniture also depends on the way of its maintenance depending on the type of metal with which they are manufactured.

    Stainless steel garden furniture, for example, is very moisture-resistant and will not rust, while cast aluminum and iron furniture will keep you closely monitored and you will have to protect against humidity.

    And although generally this kind of garden furniture and usually comes from factory protected with paints and special protective coatings, it is necessary that inspections often as this protective paint over time has to be maintained and repainting.

    For same reason, these garden furniture you have to inspect carefully and carefully to detect any type of sign of damage in the paint and thus prevent rust.

    Although for this type of metal furniture, if you use a good protective paint, snow, humidity and adverse weather conditions will not affect them, it is also a good idea that just like with wooden garden furniture, but you will use them for a season, you can save them to extend your life and maintenance.

    As you can see, garden furniture, whatever their material, require specific maintenance depending on their manufacture.


    Clearly natural stone and artificial stone garden furniture give the best results, both in terms of exposure and maintenance, but also other materials such as wood or metal can give a very personal and unique touch to your garden, that having a good system of maintenance and regular cleaning you can have them in perfect condition for a long time.
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